Shirred Sundresses

It has somewhat amazed me since we moved back to Queensland two weeks ago just how humid it is here. I had forgotten how brutal it can be when it is really hot and really humid. As I said in my last post, my Melbourne wardrobe is not really that suitable for this weather. I need really airy clothes that don't touch my skin much. I'm particularly bothered with too much fabric on my chest. M is also really sweaty and feeling the heat with her cast on -- it must be disgusting to have that little oven encasing her whole arm.

Queue the shirred sundress.

To help us both feel a bit cooler, I made a shirred sundress for us each. M's is out of a delicious Liberty gifted to me by Blogless Anna. Mine is made from seersucker from Spotlight. I wanted to test this style first before committing to one of my nicer fabrics, so this $10/m seersucker fit the bill.

For both dresses, I used Jorth's Tutorial. It is super simple. The only two things I did differently were:

1. I didn't wind the shirring elastic tight around the bobbin. I keep an even and firm-ish tension as I hand-wind it on, but not tight. To tighten the shirring up at the end, I steam the living daylights out of it with my iron. 
2. I subtracted 10cm off the width of the rectangles - I found them to be too loose. 

I winged the placement of the straps - pinned them on and tested them before sewing them on, on both dresses.

As you can see, I have a ruffle. This is not intentional! I cut my dress length too short. But now it is on, I totally love it. Ruffle-Tactic!

My last picture is to show my insides - I have a small stash of coloured shirring elastic - check out my green insides!

So there you have it. Two shirred sundresses for this crazy heat. I have two pieces of fabric cut for another for me and another for M. We're both sweating our little hearts out!

Ruby in Manning

Tomorrow Michael and I have been married for 7 years (we've been together for 12 years). Happy anniversary babe!

To celebrate, I booked in my sister to babysit lunch time next Sunday (she's pretty busy at the moment so no night-time hot dates for us). Then my lovely friend Therese (chooktopia on Instagram), who is also mum to Little M's BFF, asked if Little M could come for a playdate today at her place, and told me and Mike to go out for lunch. As if we would refuse!

In anticipation of next Sunday, I had made myself the new Tessuti pattern, the Ruby Top/Dress to wear on our date. Any excuse for a new frock, I say. I made it in a Liberty Lawn called 'Manning' that I have had in my stash for some time.

 

Tessuti list suitable fabrics as "light to medium weight linens or linen blends, rayons, viscose and silks". I think I am just scraping in using a lawn. I tried on the sample in Tessuti, made of silk crepe de chine and it flowed over my body better. It also sat at the neckline a tad more nicely.

Don't get me wrong - this lawn version is super comfy and I really like the way it looks, but that crepe de chine sample was all sorts of divine.

See how the lawn billows a little? The silk didn't do that.

I made the size 8, grading to a size 10 at the arm-holes (I know there is a more correct term than that, but I'm too tired to google it and find out) only. I do have quite broad shoulders. I also lengthened the dress length by 8cm and used the teeniest baby hem. I have cut out a viscose crepe version to sew at Sewjourn soon and lengthened by 10cm.

I really like the cut-away arms and the key hole back. I do wish there had been information in the instructions on how to make a thread loop though. I had to search around for a tutorial - the one I found was on the Oliver and S website. 

I didn't stitch-in-the-ditch for the binding on the neck and arms. I don't possess that level of finesse in ditch-stitching and love hand-stitching anyway, so I hand-stitched that binding down. Worked a treat and it meant I could control the tension on the binding to. Take note if you make this - you really do need to stretch the binding a little to get it to sit nicely. 

So, there you have it! A Ruby in Manning. I think I'll wear this a lot. It was very cool to wear on this 37 degree day here today. I have cut out a linen version and the viscose crepe I mentioned before - both to sew at Sewjourn. I also think I'll buy some silk crepe de chine in the fabric sales post-Christmas and make another Ruby dress to wear to my sister's hen's night in February. Are you going to make this? I think it is a great basic with an edge. I see many of the tops in my future too.

Rachel De Thames Liberty Saltspring

I'm trying to start a tradition of sewing Little M and I a Christmas dress each year from Liberty of London Lawn. So far, I'm doing well, however I was thwarted this year by Sydney's horrible weather on Christmas day.

You see, a Saltspring is not really a freezing, wet, sticky-day kind of dress. Luckily we've had some beautiful weather here in Melbourne (I know, I'm shocked too) that has given me ample opportunity to wear my short Saltspring.

I was going to make the maxi version again but Leith convinced me the short version is more wearable and versatile. I have to agree - it is much easier to just knock around in this short version.

I don't have much to say from my last review, except I made the size 8, lengthened the skirt by 8cm and it was a joy to sew. I hand-stitched the hem, used Lara's fancy tool to turn the straps, and thoroughly enjoyed putting this together.

The fabric is Rachel De Thames from Liberty - I got it from Shaukat, and I mostly got it because it was named Rachel. I really love the print too - just thought it was cool that there was a Liberty print with my name in it - and spelt the same way!

After wearing my maxi version around a bit, I ended up buying a bandeau bra to wear with this version. It is a simple soft cloth bra that is just like a band. It doesn't offer any support but gives a bit of coverage.

I've been wearing this a lot to play with Little M - we're all on holidays at home together and it is so nice. We've just been pottering around, going on bike rides, napping, eating, and visiting friends. I have another week off, and Michael two more weeks off with our tiny lass. Happy times indeed. 

Handmade Christmas (and Birthday) Gifts for Little Girls

I decided (in a particularly silly moment) that I would sew as many Christmas and birthday gifts as possible this year. This culminated in me cutting out:

• 12 Oliver + S Popover Sundresses
• 6 Oliver + S Bubble Dresses
• 3 Softie Dolls from 70 Piggies
• 2 Gabby Dresses
• Numerous elastic waist skirts.

I don't know if that sounds like a lot, but considering the 12 Oliver + S Popover Sundresses, 5 of the 6 Oliver + S Bubble Dresses and one of the softie dolls were all made in November, it feels like a mammoth amount to me!!

I don't have pictures of the other stuff, but here are the pictures of the ones I made in November.

First up, a little dolly called Bonny (Little M named her after one of her little mates at daycare) for my niece's first birthday.

It was very difficult to convince Little M that Bonny was actually for her cousin. Bonny lived in my sewing room until she was ready to be sent off to my niece, but one day I noticed she was missing. I asked Little M where she was, and got led to her bedroom, to find this:

I asked Little M what Bonny was doing. 'I'm just keeping her safe for A (her cousin), Mum'. Hmmm. Hilarious given she has her own version of this doll that I sewed for her before she was born.

Now onto the Popover Sundresses. This is about half of them:

The one in front is a Liberty version for Little M, the rest are gifts for my nieces, one for my neighbour's little girl, and a birthday present for Bonny, Little M's wee mate from school. I have to say that these tiny dresses are extremely satisfying to make. They are very cute, take minimal fabric, and once you get going, take about 45 minutes to make. I used Liberty, linen, Japanese cotton, and polished cotton.

Now for the Bubble dresses. I've got three to show you. This one is for my little one-year-old niece for Christmas. The smallest Bubble Dress size is a 2, but my sister isn't fussed. I used 2cm seam allowances in the hope it might fit her now. The fabric is from Rathdowne Remnants, and I had just enough left over to make Little M a simple elastic waist skirt. I don't have a picture of that.

 

This one is for my seven-year-old niece. I really wanted to make her some dresses for Christmas as for her last birthday I was running a bit behind and just bought her a dress (in my defence, her birthday is in April - I have 6 birthdays in April, including Little M's and Michael's). It was a Little Leona Edmiston dress, so it was a special one.  I sent the present with Ruth to give to her as she lives in Queensland. She opened her present, took out the dress and said 'I knew Aunty Rach would make me a dress!' Cue extreme guilt on my part. So an awesome Bubble Dress (and a Popover Sundress) for L. L is 7 but a skinny minny, so I made her a size 5 with some extra length and scant seam allowances. This fabric is also from Rathdowne Remnants.

 

I also made one for Little M to wear to Mr H's 3rd Birthday Party. I mean, a girl needs a party dress right? That and she's had a major growth spurt and desperately needs new clothes. I made this one in a size 3 and it fits her perfectly. I wonder if this means she's going to get limited wear from it. Sigh. This fabric is a remnant I picked up from Tessuti a while back. I had enough to also make my littlest niece a Popover Sundress - you can see it in the top photo.

Finally, I made Little M a little elastic waist skirt, and, at her request, one for her favourite dolly Anna.

Unfortunately Anna's skirt got cast aside for some store bought dolly clothes my Mum gave Little M for Christmas this past weekend. I shed some tears for the lack of appreciation of my toiling.

I just have one more Christmas present to make - Little M's Christmas day dress. I've decided it will be my tradition to make her a frock out of Liberty each year. I'm making it at Sewjourn this weekend, but here is a sneak peak:

I ended up choosing the buttons down the bottom. It is going to be extremely cute. Extremely.

Are you making Christmas gifts this year? Not sure I'll ever repeat it on this scale, but I have enjoyed seeing all the lovely little dresses lined up together.

Sew Nice I Made it Twice: A Liberty Cambie

I'm totally on fire with my blog post titles aren't I?

I actually made this Cambie not long after I made my last one. I like to strike while the iron's hot. I haven't gotten around to posting about it because I haven't really worn it - for some reason when I initially wore it I didn't like the way the fabric colours went with my skin tone. But today I got over that.

I made this one in the Liberty print called Wiltshire. I think paired with solid, dark accessories it is okay on me. It is not quite as vibrant as I had thought when purchasing it.

Onto the pattern .... nothing new to add from my original one. Here is a recap of the alterations I had to make:

• I started with a size 8 bodice, but ended up taking it in about 1.2cm on each side.
• I pinched about 1cm out of the middle of the sweetheart neckline.
• I shortened the straps by 1.5cm, tapering to 2cm at the bodice.
• I took 1.5cm out of each back piece from the top - tapering to nothing at the bottom.
• I shortened the bodice by 3cm.

Things I really like about this version include the pockets. Very useful for my work ID and keys. 

The back sits nice and flat, as does the front of the bodice.

So... a non-blogged item sees the light of day! I am glad I dragged this out today. It was comfy and made me feel nice. Wearing Liberty was a much needed event after my Washi dress on Saturday :-) 

I'll leave you with this final photo. I asked Michael for more direction for posing for blog photos. He told me to think of seahorses. 20 points if you can identify which movie he was referencing - one of my all-time favourites for a good snorting laugh!! 

The Academic Archer

I started my new job on Monday! I have made the move back into academia and I am so pleased. I don't think policy and research for the government was the best fit for me, so I am extremely happy to be doing research regarding sexual violence for a university again. I'm also really chuffed as the two academics I'm working for are AMAZING. Their work is incredible, and to make things even better they are really lovely women. They also each have a 2 year old, so they understand that I can't stay until late every day and occasionally I may need to leave due to my babe.

To celebrate my new job, I sewed myself another Liberty Archer shirt and a new pair of Colette Clover pants.

I didn't change much from the last time I sewed this Archer. The only change was to shorten the sleeves by 3cm. Much better!

I made it in the Edenham Liberty print, purchased from Shaukat. I really do think Liberty lawn is ideal for the Archer. It makes it incredibly easy to sew - which, to me, is a good thing as I still find sewing a collared shirt a bit intimidating.

The pants.... the weirdest thing happened with these pants. A while back I did the pants fitting class at Tessuti. I used the Clover pattern as my pants to be fitted. So I used the modified pattern to sew these, and THEY DIDN'T FIT. They were far too big and way too short. Weird huh. And annoying as  I used really nice fabric from Tessuti to sew them. I had to order some other fabric for this pair (also from Tessuti), and I used my old pattern that I had modified myself. They fit just fine.

So... I'm kinda pleased with myself with this outfit - can ya tell??

Yay for academic jobs where I don't have to wear corporate anymore!

Pattern(s): Grainline's Archer Shirt and Colette Patterns' Clover Pants.
Fabric: 2.5m Liberty Edenham from Shaukat and 1.7m stretch black cotton from Tessuti.
Notions: 9 buttons, interfacing, 7" invisible zipper.
Size: 8 for the shirt, 6 (with a fair bit taken out to make them more snug) for the pants.
Alterations: Shirt: made sleeves 3cm shorter. Pants: have no idea - would have to look up post from when I first made them!

Grainline's Archer in Liberty Paisley

I have wanted a smart button-up for ages. My friend Maree in Brisbane wears sharp button-up shirts and wide-leg pants and always looks incredibly chic, and I've always wanted to emulate her look. But I guess I've been a little scared of the old button-up shirt. Plackets, button bands, collar stands - aaaahhhh!! Scary stuff.

When Grainline released their Archer Shirt I knew I would delve into the unchartered sewing territory of button-up shirts. Mostly because it is an awesome looking pattern, and also because Jen did an Archer Sew-A-Long that I followed to sew my first Archer. In addition, I love my Moss Mini pattern so much I knew the Archer shirt would become a long-time friend of mine.

And it has.

I've wanted a paisley button-up after seeing a 70's film star wearing one. I can't remember for the life of me who it was - maybe Diane Keaton? Anyway, I went searching for an appropriate paisley and found this Liberty Lawn on the Shaukat site - it is called 'Bourton'.

So.... the pattern. This is a size 8 with no alterations. Can you believe it? I do have one thing I will change for next time.... I need to make the sleeves slightly shorter.

I was a bit naughty and didn't muslin the cuff. Muslined everywhere else, but not the cuff. So the sleeves are a tad too long. Anna had the brilliant idea of turning the cuffs back - I had been despairing, but this has totally saved the day!! And thank you Anna for these great photos!

I didn't use the instructions that came with the pattern at all. Instead I followed the sew-a-long to the tee. And I will for my next one (fabric is drying on the line for it) and the next one (a yet-to-be-purchased chambray). What can I say? If you are thinking of making this pattern, use the sew-a-long. It totally demystifies every single step of a button-up shirt. Including the collar stand. It is, in all honesty, pure genius.

So - what do you think? My paisley Archer. I think I love you.

A Liberty Laurel

Thank you everyone for your well wishes on my last post. Unfortunately things have gotten worse around here... I ended up in the Emergency Department on friday with stomach ulcers and oesophageal spasms from prolonged antibiotic use (damn you sinuses!). I thought I was having a heart attack! Awful times. Luckily my lovely friends were able to take Little M for the night - I'm so glad she didn't have to see me in that much pain.

While I'm still feeling pretty unwell, I summoned up the energy to attend Mr Sew Brunswick's 40th Birthday Party on saturday evening. I was back and in bed by about 8.30pm though!

Luckily I had a new Laurel to wear that I had finished before my emergency visit - it was a special birthday party after all!

I made it in Liberty Tana Lawn called 'Caesar' that I bought from Shaukat.

I paired it with another Red Phonenix necklace - the one with the red beads, and a jet beads necklace I bought ages ago from an antique shop in Paddington in Brisbane. I got the Red Phoenix one for Mothers' Day - Little M has excellent taste!!

I made the view with the cute little ruffle on the sleeves:

Pretty sweet huh? I made the size 8 in exactly the same way as I did my Lace Laurel, however I find the sleeves on this version much tighter. I don't know why - I guess different fabrics behave in different ways?

I underlined the dress in silk cotton, but I find it stuck to my stockings and the singlet I wore underneath. Annoying. At least it will be good come spring/summer.

So - that's my newest frock. I am now taking a break from pretty things like Laurel dresses and sewing myself some long-sleeved t-shirts, jumpers and thick Anita Ponti Pants. Because Melbourne is FREEZING at the moment!!!

What are you sewing for winter? Or summer - you lucky ducks!

Rebecca Taylor for Vogue 1344 - A Flouncy Little Frock

I decided to branch out recently and get some patterns that were slightly different to my usual style. Maybe I was feeling a little thoughtful, like the model of the pattern of my new frock - Vogue 1344, by Rebecca Taylor?

Isn't that pose just hilarious?

Anyway, you can't really see it in the above photo, but this a dress with a front flounce, elasticised waist, cross-over bodice and contrast sleeve cuffs.

I made it in a Liberty Tana Lawn, with cotton voile from Tessuti. It is lined in black silk-cotton, also from Tessuti.

It is probably a bit late in the season to be making a cotton frock, but I had intended to wear this to Little M's second birthday party on the 13th April. Michael convinced me it is probably going to be a little too cool for it, so it is getting worn now.

The pattern comes together well. I cut a straight size 12 and did nothing to it. Not even lengthen it. The only gripe I have with it is that I have to safety-pin the bodice closed - it is an absolute cleavage fest if I don't. I made the belt to go with it - used the same voile as the sleeve cuffs and simply interfaced it heavily. It closes with two hooks and eyes. I thought it looked a bit weird without the black belt to tie it all in together.

Look at that flounce flying around in the wind.

I really recommend this pattern - it is simple enough to sew, and doesn't require fitting given its elasticised nature. You definitely need to use a light fabric though - think lawn, voile or silk. There are a lot of tucks/pleats in the bodice and the flounce needs to be soft and light to drape properly.

So, there we have it. A cute little frock to end Melbourne's hot weather on. I am now working like a gun to finish my Sewcie Tea dress and a dress to wear to Little M's party. Luckily I finished Little M's dress and leggings a while back.

Sydney Sewing Social Series: Dress #1 - The Flipperty Liberty Frock

Hello! Do you sew specifically for your holidays? I do! As I think everyone knows, I went with the Lovely Leith (how lucky am I to have met such a great sewing mate?) to Sydney this past weekend for the Sydney Sewing Social that Christy organised. And I sewed three dresses specifically for it.

Here is the tale of #1 - the Flipperty Liberty Dress.

You know how you want to be really comfy at the airport, enabling you to have a few glasses of prosecco and then jump on the plane and maybe have another glass? Well, I made a modified Gabby to suit that purpose.

I made it in one of the new season Liberty lawns. I wanted something bright and fun to go with my new necklace (made by friends of mine - twin girls who sell at redphoenixemporium.com). This new Liberty jumped off the webpage at me and into my shopping basket!

To modify the Gabby I:

• Left off the sleeves;
• Used the same binding technique used on the neck for the armholes;
• Chopped the dress off at 65cm; 
• Did two rectangles the width of the Liberty (137cm) by 20cm gathered onto the bottom of the dress for a ruffle. I used a 3cm hem; and
• I thought about doing a 'bubble' hem but decided the lawn was not quite soft enough for it. 

These modifications worked a treat. I now have a very comfy but sassy (so I think!) dress! I've worn this a lot - to Play Group with Little M (that is when the pictures above were taken) and to a play date with some of my Mothers' Group friends. It survived Little M weeing on me (we're toilet training at the moment), banana being squished into it, and some vomit from a five month old bubba. And no one could tell it had met these misfortunes due to that lovely colourful and crazy print! Of course, most importantly, it withstood some very fun prosecco-drinking adventures with Leith on friday night.

Anyway - a bit later this week I'll post about the dress I wore to the actual Sydney Sewing Social. What fun we all had!! I want to go back!

Vogue DKNY and Sydney Sewers' Meet-Up

Hi! Thanks for all your lovely comments on my Valerie top - I hope you've started sewing yours!

This post is twofold - the first is to talk about Leith's and my upcoming trip to Sydney and the second is to show you my new Vogue 1027 - the DKNY faux-wrap dress (that I've made before).

Leith and I are going to Sydney for a sewing meet-up that Christy has organised. We arrive on Friday the 8th of February and the meet-up is scheduled for the next day. Here are the details:

When: Saturday 9th February
Time: 1pm
Where: Tessuti Fabrics Surry Hills, then to The Fabric Store.

There is some discussion regarding whether people want to go The Remnant Warehouse before 1pm -- I am VERY keen.

So - who can meet us? It is so exciting to be going to an interstate sewers' meet-up!

Next up I have my new Vogue 1027 DKNY dress to show you.

You'll probably remember that I've made this before. Well, I wore my other three versions to death during my pregnancy. They were very stretched out so I put them in the Vinnie's bin during a major clean-out I had over my holidays.

For this version, I used a cotton jesry (hehehe Leith!) by Liberty. It is 95% cotton and 5% elastane. The cotton jersey is a lot lighter than viscose jersey and perfect for this type of dress as it doesn't sag and stretch out as much.

My only alteration to the size 8 was to overlap the front bodice pieces more - if I don't do this I show a whole bunch of bony cleavage (the only bony part on me!), which just isn't attractive. Plus I want to be able to wear this to work.

I love this dress - check out the twirly skirt! Little M loved my twirling and joined in the fun.

I'm busy sewing the two frocks I want to take to Sydney -- hope some of you out there will be able to join us!