Kate Top Sewing Competition

After a little hiatus from sewing for me, I decided to enter the Kate Sewing Competition run by Tessuti. Kate is their new top pattern and is a shell top with a cropped length and side splits. I chose to make it in an awesome printed stretch cotton also from Tessuti (now sold out).

My Kate came together beautifully. I cut the size small and ended up taking it in. I'm currently making another and am making the extra-small.

I love these cut-away sleeves on my broad shoulders. It shows them off beautifully.

The pattern on this fabric was not printed straight, but I think I made it work. I used the option for concealed binding on the neck edge and armholes. I used some linen in my stash for the binding.

The instructions for the split are great and easy to follow. You end up with a beautifully finished garment.

So now I have a new top that I totally love! I initially wasn't sure about the colours on me as they are quite different from my usual choices, but I really like how they look on me.

How about you? Are you entering the Kate Competition?

Two-Piece Setacular

Hi! Happy new year. It's been so long since I blogged. After Sewjourn in December last year I sprained my neck. That has seriously curtailed my sewing, blogging, fun etc. But I'm slowly on the road to recovery and have something I sewed at Sewjourn to show you.

I really love Gorman clothing. Their most current collection had a bunch of 'sets' of clothing - predominantly full skirts and culottes teamed with a cropped woven tank. I really wanted my own version. I was also hugely inspired by the round of Setaculars, the brain child of Sophie from Ada Spragg, that were everywhere in blogland last year.

First, I found the perfect fabric - an Italian cotton called Ink Floreale from Tessuti, which is now no longer available. I then decided to make a circle skirt and a matching cropped top. I used vintage Style 3863 for the skirt - a full circle skirt pattern from the 1980's.

I borrowed this picture from the Tessuti blog - Lisa also made this recently.

I then used my staple woven tank pattern, OOP Simplicity 2599, to create a cropped tank.

So, here she is! My Gorman-inspired two-piece setacular.

 

I tried to get it so that tank finished just over my waistband, and would only flash teeny bits of skin when I stretched. One of the women at Sewjourn helped me mark the length - I can't remember who it was, but they were spot on! Thanks!

Can you see my invisible zip at the CB? Me either!!

This all came together really well. I have made the tank a million times so no thought was really needed. The skirt hung from the first night at Sewjourn until last weekend.... so over a month. This wasn't intentional, I just couldn't really sew for a while after spraining my neck. I had to machine stitch it (I wouldn't usually) as I'm still not up to long periods of hand stitching (or sewing full stop).

I feel amazingly feminine in this outfit. There is something about wearing a waisted skirt with the cropped tank, and the swishy-ness of the skirt that makes me feel all w-o-m-a-n.

I'm glad to be back blogging. I have a backlog from Sewjourn and one item from since I've been back. I'm also really looking forward to sewing a bit more now my neck is on the mend.

Simplicity 1366

Simplicity 1366, a drop-shouldered, cropped top has been doing the rounds of late. I thought it looked good, but wasn't going to buy it. Then three bloggers whose style I adore made it up, and I decided to take the plunge. Check out Mixed Emotions version,  Groovy Baby and Mama's version,  and Lily Sage & Co's version.

To start, I decided to make it in leftovers of a viscose I bought from Tessuti last Christmas - I made a pair of Suzy pants and had about 1m leftover. So I made a 1366!

Warning: these photos are fairly terrible, sorry. It was rainy and yucky and I was en route to work and had about 2 minutes to get photographed. My motto these days is to get things photographed. Otherwise they never will.

I made a size 12 and after some advice from fellow Instagrammers of similar height to me, lengthened it at the hem and at the sleeves by 2.5cm.

In future versions, I will pinch about 1cm out of the back neckline. It is a tad too wide across there.

I wore it with my black Libby A-Line skirt. Perhaps a teeny bit short for work, but I am used to government attire. Would never wear this to a government job, but I was sitting in my office all day that day. Although I did go out for lunch with my boss. I think next week I will wear it with my black Papercut Patterns Pleated pants and brogues.

I think this looks like one of those professional school photos were you turn slightly side on and smile, usually with a white sheet behind you.

Have you made one of these? I'm going to make a Liberty one soon (maybe at Sewjourn), and like the idea of lengthening it into a dress - perhaps in a nice rayon or viscose. How about you?

Yves Saint Laurent Set-Acular Goes to the Nurse's Ball

My lovely sister Ruth asked me a while back if I would like to go as her date to her annual nurse's ball. Matt, her fiancé, has decided it is not his thing. It is most definitely my thing. Getting dressed up, swanning around sipping champagne, being generally a little bit fancy. Being the mother of a 3 yo, I do not get fancy. I get dirty, rumpled and generally tired. In short, I jumped at the chance to have a fancy night on the town with my dear sister.

I had planned another dress, out of silk I got for Christmas. I stuffed the bodice. I could fix it, but could not fix it in time for the ball. I don't really have a fancy fabrics stash, with lovely silks waiting my attention, so with just under two weeks until the ball, I paid Tessuti a rather panicked visit, and bought 2.2m of Musk Graffiato, a divine silk crepe de chine that Trish told me was a Yves Saint Laurent fabric. Let me tell you, it is amazing.

As I didn't have much time, I decided to go super simple. I also really wanted to make something I would wear again. I have done a wardrobe purge recently and need flattering clothing I feel good in. I have also been lusting after a very simple maxi skirt that Debbie made a while back, and so decided I would do a maxi skirt and shell top.

The top is Simplicity 2599 a very simple shell top with a few variations. I made the most simple of tops, no frill, in a size 12. The only things I did differently were binding the neck and arms and I used french seams. No way an overlocker was coming anywhere near my beautiful silk!

The skirt is a basic gathered skirt. I used a straight waistband with the zip going all the way to the top - I really don't like button overlaps on these types of skirts.

I didn't line either - I wanted them to be summer garments, light and swishy. The fabric was an absolute dream. Just wonderful to sew with.

I wore it with an Elk necklace and earrings, Elk shoes and a Saba belt.

Here I am with Ruthy. Little M said she looked like a ballerina queen. High praise. 

I had a great time - it was nice to be out and about, nattering away and eating nice food and drinking champagne. And of course, being all dressed up!

I see myself getting a lot of wear from these two pieces as separates. I think it was a good idea to sew something like this. I'm doing some serious planning for my Summer wardrobe. I want it to be a thoughtful plan, with coordinated pieces that will last. Do you plan your sewing? Or are you like me usually - sew the newest pattern in whatever fabric takes your fancy? 

Day Tripper Top by Shwin Designs

Hello! It has been a looong time between posts. It is such a crazy time of year for me at the moment. I'm lecturing again after having five years (!) off and it has thoroughly surprised me how much it is kicking my butt. Looking forward to the end of semester in two weeks!

I have been doing some sewing, just finding it hard to blog my makes. I made the Day Tripper Top by Shwin Designs about a month ago, out of a wool knit from Anna's stash that was originally from Tessuti.

I made a size small. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't need to adjust for length. I usually do, but I really like the length of this version. It is the perfect length for wearing with my Cue work pants. In this lovely wool knit it is also a very cosy and toasty top - almost like a jumper. I am seriously lacking things like this in my wardrobe. I actually had to purchase two wool jumpers (from Elk) to assist in keeping me warm. Melbourne has just gone through a cold snap (though it is pretty warm at the moment) and I was completely freezing.

 

I like how it dips down at the back - like a mullet top!

 

I did encounter one issue. When I attached the neck band, it gaped very badly. It stood up at the shoulder seams, making it look like a bad funnel neck. The neck band is a rectangle folded in two - I think this is why. I think it needs to be shaped. To fix it, I unpicked the neck band at the shoulder seams and essentially made a dart in the fabric to contour it to my neck. This worked on the whole - there is still room for improvement though.

The sleeves and hem are finished with bands - I think this makes it look nice and professional. I was going to do a twin-stitch around the neck, sleeves and hem bands but this wool knit is quite dense and spongy so I simply did a single row of stitching to secure the seam allowance. I think it only needs one row.

I really like this top and would recommend the pattern - on the proviso that you fix the neck band. I am tempted to make another, or maybe the Perri Pullover? Hard decision.

I'm in the thick of making my French Jacket and Ruthy's engagement party dress at the moment though, so all other winter sewing is on the back burner! What are you making?

Gettin' My Printerama On: Suzy & Hemlock

This year for Christmas, my mum took me fabric shopping. She gave me some cash and let me loose in Tessuti. Mum, I love you. Michael and I are trying very hard to be more savings-oriented, as we want to renovate our house in the near future, starting with removing the revolting cladding the owners had put on in the 1970s. Underneath is a beautiful weatherboard 1920s Californian Bungalow. Apparently the owners (they owned it since it was built in 1927) had grown older and didn't want to paint the weatherboard. It kinda worked for us as we paid about $50k less due to the undesirable (and asbestos-filled) cladding. So we want to start by removing it - this will cost a pretty penny ($5-10k) due to it being asbestos, and therefore not something we will do ourselves.

Anyway, that was a long-winded way of saying that my fabric budget is much, much less than usual. So being given free reign (within reason of course!) at Tessuti was bliss.

I bought lovely things, but the pieces I was most itching to sew was a viscose twill called 'Printerama' and a black jersey called 'Black Orbit'. I can't find either on their website. I decided to sew more Suzy Pants and a sleeveless version of Grainline's Hemlock Tee.

The pants were sewn up according to my last pair in silk crepe de chine. I sewed a size small, had a few minor adjustments and et voila! I have a pair of pants that I adore. I sewed them up last week and have worn them three times already. The viscose twill was lovely to sew - Tessuti, if you're reading this, can we please have more?

Now onto the Hemlock.  I had quite a few fitting issues with the Hemlock. When I sewed up the shoulder and side seams and popped it on to check the fit, the shoulder seams curved up to my neck and created the weirdest extra bits of fabric scoops. I had to straighten them out a lot. Weird huh? I haven't read about anyone else having this issue - have you?

Despite a bit of annoying fitting for the tee, I really love this combo. And I love how it goes with my yellow Elk shoes (most comfy shoes on the planet - since buying them about 6 months ago, I would estimate I wear them 3-5 times a week). My mum also got me the Elk necklace I'm wearing. Thanks Mum!

This is my last week of holidays, and I'm going to start looking at my Chanel-inspired jacket. Mum also bought me the fabric for that. To say I'm extremely excited (and slightly apprehensive) is an understatement! What are you sewing at the moment?

The Academic Archer

I started my new job on Monday! I have made the move back into academia and I am so pleased. I don't think policy and research for the government was the best fit for me, so I am extremely happy to be doing research regarding sexual violence for a university again. I'm also really chuffed as the two academics I'm working for are AMAZING. Their work is incredible, and to make things even better they are really lovely women. They also each have a 2 year old, so they understand that I can't stay until late every day and occasionally I may need to leave due to my babe.

To celebrate my new job, I sewed myself another Liberty Archer shirt and a new pair of Colette Clover pants.

I didn't change much from the last time I sewed this Archer. The only change was to shorten the sleeves by 3cm. Much better!

I made it in the Edenham Liberty print, purchased from Shaukat. I really do think Liberty lawn is ideal for the Archer. It makes it incredibly easy to sew - which, to me, is a good thing as I still find sewing a collared shirt a bit intimidating.

The pants.... the weirdest thing happened with these pants. A while back I did the pants fitting class at Tessuti. I used the Clover pattern as my pants to be fitted. So I used the modified pattern to sew these, and THEY DIDN'T FIT. They were far too big and way too short. Weird huh. And annoying as  I used really nice fabric from Tessuti to sew them. I had to order some other fabric for this pair (also from Tessuti), and I used my old pattern that I had modified myself. They fit just fine.

So... I'm kinda pleased with myself with this outfit - can ya tell??

Yay for academic jobs where I don't have to wear corporate anymore!

Pattern(s): Grainline's Archer Shirt and Colette Patterns' Clover Pants.
Fabric: 2.5m Liberty Edenham from Shaukat and 1.7m stretch black cotton from Tessuti.
Notions: 9 buttons, interfacing, 7" invisible zipper.
Size: 8 for the shirt, 6 (with a fair bit taken out to make them more snug) for the pants.
Alterations: Shirt: made sleeves 3cm shorter. Pants: have no idea - would have to look up post from when I first made them!

Grainline's Archer in Liberty Paisley

I have wanted a smart button-up for ages. My friend Maree in Brisbane wears sharp button-up shirts and wide-leg pants and always looks incredibly chic, and I've always wanted to emulate her look. But I guess I've been a little scared of the old button-up shirt. Plackets, button bands, collar stands - aaaahhhh!! Scary stuff.

When Grainline released their Archer Shirt I knew I would delve into the unchartered sewing territory of button-up shirts. Mostly because it is an awesome looking pattern, and also because Jen did an Archer Sew-A-Long that I followed to sew my first Archer. In addition, I love my Moss Mini pattern so much I knew the Archer shirt would become a long-time friend of mine.

And it has.

I've wanted a paisley button-up after seeing a 70's film star wearing one. I can't remember for the life of me who it was - maybe Diane Keaton? Anyway, I went searching for an appropriate paisley and found this Liberty Lawn on the Shaukat site - it is called 'Bourton'.

So.... the pattern. This is a size 8 with no alterations. Can you believe it? I do have one thing I will change for next time.... I need to make the sleeves slightly shorter.

I was a bit naughty and didn't muslin the cuff. Muslined everywhere else, but not the cuff. So the sleeves are a tad too long. Anna had the brilliant idea of turning the cuffs back - I had been despairing, but this has totally saved the day!! And thank you Anna for these great photos!

I didn't use the instructions that came with the pattern at all. Instead I followed the sew-a-long to the tee. And I will for my next one (fabric is drying on the line for it) and the next one (a yet-to-be-purchased chambray). What can I say? If you are thinking of making this pattern, use the sew-a-long. It totally demystifies every single step of a button-up shirt. Including the collar stand. It is, in all honesty, pure genius.

So - what do you think? My paisley Archer. I think I love you.

Briar. And Anita.

You know one of the things I most love about having some real life sewing friends (apart from having awesome friends)? I can try on their sewn garments to (a) see if they look good on me and (b) check the fit.

This is what I did when I went over Anna's a few weekends ago and she was wearing her Megan Nielson Briar top. Readers, I cannot lie. I nearly ripped it off Anna's back. But I thought that would be rude so I politely waited until we were combing through her amazing wardrobe and calmly tried it on instead.

Luckily for me, it fit like a complete dream, simply needing 2cm added to the length of the front. So I made myself the size L with the added length, and ended up with a beautifully warm jumper:

See my cute green beads from yesterday? Little M wore her pink and purple ones out today too and we had quite a few comments about Mummy & Me matching outfits. Not sure how I feel about that!

This Briar is made from a Merino wool knit - quite a thick one - from The Fabric Store on Brunswick St. Luckily this pattern doesn't need much fabric, because I got sucked in to the tune of $38/m. But I have to say - this is THE most lusciously warm knit - I wore it out tonight for dinner and didn't wear a coat, despite it being coat weather. 

What can I say about this pattern? It comes together like a dream. I LOVE the way the neckline binding is attached (sorry, I forgot to get a close-up sans scarf). It just looks so professional. The merino was also a dream to sew. Despite some initial hesitation, I also really love the high-low hem. I think it is a cool way to layer. I'm not sure I'd wear the Briar without another layer underneath. After having my appendix out and giving birth, my tummy muscles are not as tiiiiight as I'd like them to be. So no midriff peeks from me. 

I also have to report that I have made another (two!) pair of Anita Ponti Pants. My previous Bleach Boys pair gets a serious workout, so I bought some extremely thick black ponti from Tessuti. I originally made this ponti into a pair of Style Arc Sailor Sue Palazzo Pants and the ponti was such a bad fabric choice that I refashioned them into these Anitas. I sized down for this pair too - really sized down. I would estimate these are at least a size 6 in the waist and leg - possibly smaller. I started with my size 10 but the first time I wore them spent the day hoiking them up. So I unpicked the waist and the hems and made them a lot smaller.

This Briar and a pair of Anita Pants has been my go-to outfit over the last while. I love the combo, and it keeps me super warm on these horrible chilly Melbourne days we've been having (although the last two days have been beautifully sunny). I love the outfit so much that I have made another Briar and another pair of printed Anitas that I will show you soon.

So - what is your take on the Briar? Are you a fan of the high-low hem?

More Pattern Testing: The Reow! Alexa T-Top

I have been lucky enough to pattern test twice for Tessuti! This time I tested their newly-today-released Alexa T-Top Pattern.

I must admit this is the most perfect T-shirt I have ever owned. Most of the time T-shirts are either too tight through the shoulders relative to my hips, too short, not long enough through the sleeve or the neckline is too high.

But with my Alexa, the neckline is perfect, the sleeves didn't need lengthening, the shoulder width is perfect and it just nicely swathes around my hips without being too tight. I made the size small and simply lengthened it by 4cm. I knew I needed to as I measured my favourite tank top as a comparison.

I made it up in a very soft and luscious Dolce & Gabbana leopard print jersey - REOW!!!

The pattern is very simple. Sleeves, back, front and binding. It calls for you to twin-stich the neck binding and all the hems. This would be a good pattern to learn to twin stitch. I used my walking foot as well as the twin-needle as the jersey is very soft. So perhaps if you are a knit-beginner, choose a more stable cotton jersey or a viscose jersey with more weight behind it.

I have worn this five times since I finished sewing it two weekends ago. The only thing that has stopped me wearing it again is that it now needs washing.

I'm wearing it above with another Moss Mini Skirt, made in a pale, lighter weight denim. I wear this skirt everywhere. Unfortunately my darker denim one has somehow gotten bleached out streak marks on it - I hung it inside in the shade so I'm not sure what happened.

I'm going to look for some more fabric to make another Alexa this weekend when I'm in Sydney - my list is growing!!

Tessuti's Valerie Top

Did you see Tessuti released their new pattern today called the Valerie Top? Well, here is my version:

Before you go thinking I am an amazingly quick seamstress to have purchased the pattern, prewashed my fabric, cut the pattern out, cut the fabric out and sewed the whole thing in a couple of hours, I made this top last weekend - I was lucky enough to be a pattern tester for Colette (note: sewing this top did take only a few hours - but I'd prepped my pattern and fabric beforehand).

I've never been a pattern tester before and I have to say I was lucky to cut my teeth on one of the Tessuti patterns. It came together like a dream. I swear that when Colette drafts those patterns she is thinking of me ;-)

I made a size small in a silk/cotton voile and didn't have to make any adjustments. Pretty cool. The instructions are very clear and make the slightly more advanced elements of this pattern extremely easy. For example, Colette outlines perhaps the easiest way I've ever seen to attach bias binding that has been cut on an angle. Whenever I've had to do that in the past I've always sat there staring at the two tails of binding for about three hours before yelling "Michael!!!!!!!!!!"

I really recommend this pattern. I'm going to make a plain black or navy in a silk crepe de chine -- this one goes perfectly with my Clovers and my Moss Mini skirt so I figure I should make another one!!

I've got a few projects to post soon - catching up from my sewing over the Christmas/New Year break. Currently I'm sewing Vintage Vogue 7164 in an Italian printed linen I picked up in Brisbane. What are you sewing?

'Bright' Trend: Orange Chloe Pants (and a Marc Jacobs tank)

After the success of my Como Black Out Linen Chloe Trousers (pattern by Tessuti), I knew that I wanted to make another (or maybe more) pair. I decided to branch out and embrace the bright, vivid colour trend that has been around for a while and make them in a really bright orange linen:

 Excuse my photos - I am getting over a nasty sinus infection and not feeling my best - I've been put on steriods!! 

What else can I say about these pants except that I love them? I've never had a pair of pants fit so well and be so comfortable. And I feel quite chic in them. I love them in orange, and want more.... I was in Tessuti yesterday and Lisa and I were discussing hot pink or a jade/emerald green - what do you think?

The top is another Simplicity 2599. These tanks take me about 2 hours to make - especially now that I have an overlocker! They are really comfy and the perfect length. I'm making a white linen one at the moment.... it will be perfect for summer.

This leaf cotton is by Marc Jacobs and it is the most soft, buttery, luscious cotton I have ever sewn with. I got it from The Fabric Store (as well as the orange linen) at our recent Sewers' Meet-Up. I would like more for a dress, but I think the print is too distinctive to get away with more than one garment in it. What do you think?