Grainline's Maritime Shorts

Here is the last thing I sewed for my Queensland holiday with Little M - the Maritime Shorts Pattern from Grainline Studios.

Do you know I forgot to get a single outfit photo of me while I was away? I was too busy taking photos of Little M with her three little cousins. Ah well. I wore this outfit on Wednesday (one of my at-home days) -  it was probably actually a little too cold to wear shorts!

Anyway, onto the pattern. I didn't make a muslin for these. Instead I started with a size 6 (the size Moss Mini I wear), and then measured the crotch length of the pattern against a pair of Country Road shorts I have and love. I lengthened the back crotch curve by 3cm and the hem length by 3cm and that was that.

I think they fit well. Maybe a little loose across the back waistband. I might take a wee bit out of the centre back for my next pair.

The pattern came together easily, just like the Moss Mini. The construction is very similar in fact. I made them out of a denim from Tessuti called Costner - now sold out. It is a lovely denim.

I initially worried they were going to be too short, but I actually like the length. Short but not ass-cheek hanging out the back short. I am a bit self-concious of my extremely white legs though. And I need to do a few squats to tone 'em back up!

I also made this t-shirt, from a Dolce and Gabbana jersey I got from Tessuti at 50% off. Yay for sales! This is the Alexa Tee pattern with the Briar neckline. I'm still not sure the neckline suits me as a t-shirt. What do you think?

So.... my first pair of me-made shorts. I think I like them! I don't wear shorts often, but I must admit these are extremely comfortable. I think they will get a lot of wear in the summer here. Do you think they would work in linen (surely everything works in linen!)?

Pattern(s): Grainline's Maritime Shorts and a frankenpattern of Tessuti's Alexa Tee Top and Megan Nielsen's Briar Sweater.
Fabric: shorts - 1m Costner denim from Tessuti. Shirt - 1.4m Dolce & Gabbana jersey from Tessuti.
Notions: 7" regular zipper, stay tape for the shirt.
Alterations: shorts - lengthened back crotch by 3cm and lengthened hem by 3cm.

The Academic Archer

I started my new job on Monday! I have made the move back into academia and I am so pleased. I don't think policy and research for the government was the best fit for me, so I am extremely happy to be doing research regarding sexual violence for a university again. I'm also really chuffed as the two academics I'm working for are AMAZING. Their work is incredible, and to make things even better they are really lovely women. They also each have a 2 year old, so they understand that I can't stay until late every day and occasionally I may need to leave due to my babe.

To celebrate my new job, I sewed myself another Liberty Archer shirt and a new pair of Colette Clover pants.

I didn't change much from the last time I sewed this Archer. The only change was to shorten the sleeves by 3cm. Much better!

I made it in the Edenham Liberty print, purchased from Shaukat. I really do think Liberty lawn is ideal for the Archer. It makes it incredibly easy to sew - which, to me, is a good thing as I still find sewing a collared shirt a bit intimidating.

The pants.... the weirdest thing happened with these pants. A while back I did the pants fitting class at Tessuti. I used the Clover pattern as my pants to be fitted. So I used the modified pattern to sew these, and THEY DIDN'T FIT. They were far too big and way too short. Weird huh. And annoying as  I used really nice fabric from Tessuti to sew them. I had to order some other fabric for this pair (also from Tessuti), and I used my old pattern that I had modified myself. They fit just fine.

So... I'm kinda pleased with myself with this outfit - can ya tell??

Yay for academic jobs where I don't have to wear corporate anymore!

Pattern(s): Grainline's Archer Shirt and Colette Patterns' Clover Pants.
Fabric: 2.5m Liberty Edenham from Shaukat and 1.7m stretch black cotton from Tessuti.
Notions: 9 buttons, interfacing, 7" invisible zipper.
Size: 8 for the shirt, 6 (with a fair bit taken out to make them more snug) for the pants.
Alterations: Shirt: made sleeves 3cm shorter. Pants: have no idea - would have to look up post from when I first made them!

Grainline's Archer in Liberty Paisley

I have wanted a smart button-up for ages. My friend Maree in Brisbane wears sharp button-up shirts and wide-leg pants and always looks incredibly chic, and I've always wanted to emulate her look. But I guess I've been a little scared of the old button-up shirt. Plackets, button bands, collar stands - aaaahhhh!! Scary stuff.

When Grainline released their Archer Shirt I knew I would delve into the unchartered sewing territory of button-up shirts. Mostly because it is an awesome looking pattern, and also because Jen did an Archer Sew-A-Long that I followed to sew my first Archer. In addition, I love my Moss Mini pattern so much I knew the Archer shirt would become a long-time friend of mine.

And it has.

I've wanted a paisley button-up after seeing a 70's film star wearing one. I can't remember for the life of me who it was - maybe Diane Keaton? Anyway, I went searching for an appropriate paisley and found this Liberty Lawn on the Shaukat site - it is called 'Bourton'.

So.... the pattern. This is a size 8 with no alterations. Can you believe it? I do have one thing I will change for next time.... I need to make the sleeves slightly shorter.

I was a bit naughty and didn't muslin the cuff. Muslined everywhere else, but not the cuff. So the sleeves are a tad too long. Anna had the brilliant idea of turning the cuffs back - I had been despairing, but this has totally saved the day!! And thank you Anna for these great photos!

I didn't use the instructions that came with the pattern at all. Instead I followed the sew-a-long to the tee. And I will for my next one (fabric is drying on the line for it) and the next one (a yet-to-be-purchased chambray). What can I say? If you are thinking of making this pattern, use the sew-a-long. It totally demystifies every single step of a button-up shirt. Including the collar stand. It is, in all honesty, pure genius.

So - what do you think? My paisley Archer. I think I love you.

Papercut Pleated Pants Pattern

Let me begin by saying I love my new pants. I really do. But I do not love the process by which I arrived at them. Here is the tale of the Papercut Pleated Pants.

A few months ago the lovely Anna of Blogless Anna Fame was at my house for a sewing afternoon. We held a bit of a fabric/pattern swap (Leith and Lara were also there so there were lots of swapsies going on). Anna gifted me the Papercuts Pleated Pants pattern, which had been on my 'to-buy' list for a while. I cannot lie, I squealed with delight when she gave it to me.

I was pretty keen to sew them up straight away, but 2 year old birthdays and ponti dresses got in the way, so I have only just made them. I made them in a Bettina Liano denim from Rathdowne Remnants. Lovely denim.

See my dubious expression? There is a reason....

My hair is so gross in these photos. I got it cut today. 

I made a muslin, and thank goodness I did, because the sizing is so off on these pants it isn't funny. I cut the small, and made the following adjustments:

• I took THIRTEEN cm out of the waistband. 
• I tapered in the outer leg by 4cm on each leg.
• I tapered the inner leg by 5cm on each leg. 
• I faced the waistband with leftover Liberty Lawn.
• I did the pleats the opposite way to the pattern. 
• I used 3 hooks instead of 2. 

I also did not use the instructions for the fly front. I used Grainline Studio's tutorial - I discovered this when making my Moss Mini Skirts and it is simply the best tutorial for a fly front I have ever come across. Give it a go - I highly recommend. 

Grrr... you can see the tiniest bit of facing poking out

Do you think it is simply crazy that I had to take 13cm out of a size small waistband? I do. I am usually about a size 12 in patterns - sometimes a 10 for a knit - or a size 6 for the American independent patterns, which I think equates to a size 10-12 Australian. So I'm not a 'small', and certainly not an off-the-size-chart size. I honestly don't know what actually small women would have to do - maybe draft a whole new pattern? 

So ... a reminder to me that muslins are important! Despite the fitting nightmare of these pants I really do love them. I wore them today and they are incredibly comfortable. They are like wearing jeans but more comfortable. I have some suiting in my stash I think I'll make a pair from - what do you think? 

More Pattern Testing: The Reow! Alexa T-Top

I have been lucky enough to pattern test twice for Tessuti! This time I tested their newly-today-released Alexa T-Top Pattern.

I must admit this is the most perfect T-shirt I have ever owned. Most of the time T-shirts are either too tight through the shoulders relative to my hips, too short, not long enough through the sleeve or the neckline is too high.

But with my Alexa, the neckline is perfect, the sleeves didn't need lengthening, the shoulder width is perfect and it just nicely swathes around my hips without being too tight. I made the size small and simply lengthened it by 4cm. I knew I needed to as I measured my favourite tank top as a comparison.

I made it up in a very soft and luscious Dolce & Gabbana leopard print jersey - REOW!!!

The pattern is very simple. Sleeves, back, front and binding. It calls for you to twin-stich the neck binding and all the hems. This would be a good pattern to learn to twin stitch. I used my walking foot as well as the twin-needle as the jersey is very soft. So perhaps if you are a knit-beginner, choose a more stable cotton jersey or a viscose jersey with more weight behind it.

I have worn this five times since I finished sewing it two weekends ago. The only thing that has stopped me wearing it again is that it now needs washing.

I'm wearing it above with another Moss Mini Skirt, made in a pale, lighter weight denim. I wear this skirt everywhere. Unfortunately my darker denim one has somehow gotten bleached out streak marks on it - I hung it inside in the shade so I'm not sure what happened.

I'm going to look for some more fabric to make another Alexa this weekend when I'm in Sydney - my list is growing!!

Grainline Moss Mini Skirt

I used to wear mini skirts all the time when I was a young whippersnapper. Not as short as I see around these days, but definitely mini skirts. I haven't worn one in a while, but wanted a denim one for this summer to pair with tanks and singlets.

I thought the new Grainline Moss Skirt looked pretty perfect, if a little short for me. I made it up in a size 6 with no fit alterations bar lengthening it by 15cm. I made it in a lovely black Italian denim from Tessuti.

I wore this to work on Friday - we have casual Fridays. I wore a cream and red striped Veronika Maine blazer over it.

This was my first time sewing a Grainline pattern and my first time sewing a fly like this. The pattern instructions are amazingly clear and easy to follow. There is also a tutorial on the Grainline blog.

I did two things differently. I faced the waistband with the same Liberty cotton lawn I used for the pockets as my denim was too thick to use as the facing.

I also faced the hem with the Liberty as when I tried on the skirt before hemming it was exactly the right length. I despaired for a while thinking it would be more mini than I wanted and then had the lightbulb moment of facing the hem.  

I love this skirt. It is really comfy and a good length for running around after Little M. I also really like the fit. Slim but not tight. Will look good with a pair of Converse or a pair of sandals. My kinda skirt. I think I will make another one in the new year - maybe a red one?