Thursday, May 16, 2013

Papercut Pleated Pants Pattern

Let me begin by saying I love my new pants. I really do. But I do not love the process by which I arrived at them. Here is the tale of the Papercut Pleated Pants.

A few months ago the lovely Anna of Blogless Anna Fame was at my house for a sewing afternoon. We held a bit of a fabric/pattern swap (Leith and Lara were also there so there were lots of swapsies going on). Anna gifted me the Papercuts Pleated Pants pattern, which had been on my 'to-buy' list for a while. I cannot lie, I squealed with delight when she gave it to me.

I was pretty keen to sew them up straight away, but 2 year old birthdays and ponti dresses got in the way, so I have only just made them. I made them in a Bettina Liano denim from Rathdowne Remnants. Lovely denim.

See my dubious expression? There is a reason....

My hair is so gross in these photos. I got it cut today. 

I made a muslin, and thank goodness I did, because the sizing is so off on these pants it isn't funny. I cut the small, and made the following adjustments:

  • I took THIRTEEN cm out of the waistband. 
  • I tapered in the outer leg by 4cm on each leg.
  • I tapered the inner leg by 5cm on each leg. 
  • I faced the waistband with leftover Liberty Lawn.
  • I did the pleats the opposite way to the pattern. 
  • I used 3 hooks instead of 2. 
I also did not use the instructions for the fly front. I used Grainline Studio's tutorial - I discovered this when making my Moss Mini Skirts and it is simply the best tutorial for a fly front I have ever come across. Give it a go - I highly recommend. 
Grrr... you can see the tiniest bit of facing poking out

Do you think it is simply crazy that I had to take 13cm out of a size small waistband? I do. I am usually about a size 12 in patterns - sometimes a 10 for a knit - or a size 6 for the American independent patterns, which I think equates to a size 10-12 Australian. So I'm not a 'small', and certainly not an off-the-size-chart size. I honestly don't know what actually small women would have to do - maybe draft a whole new pattern? 

So ... a reminder to me that muslins are important! Despite the fitting nightmare of these pants I really do love them. I wore them today and they are incredibly comfortable. They are like wearing jeans but more comfortable. I have some suiting in my stash I think I'll make a pair from - what do you think? 


  1. I LOVE THEM!! They look fabulous.

  2. Don't you just hate it when a pattern needs a silly amount of adjustments?
    The finished pants do look good though. A muslin is a must for anything fitted I think.

  3. I'm in love with them too, have been waiting to see some finished pants from this pattern. I'm not good with adjustments, i get frustrated and give up. There is no time for altering, only sewing. quick and dirty sewing. I think yours look fabbo :-) Glad you stuck it out!

  4. These look amazing!!! It does stink that you had to make so many adjustments to get this final product, but it was soooo worth it!! They really are awesome!

  5. I think all that trouble was worth it. They are a really modern cut pant. They are the only pattern of Paper Cut's that I am drawn to, still putting off the purchase though.

  6. That's a crazy waistband problem. The pants look fantastic on you.

  7. i am glad you were able to work out the issues, because the finished product is lovely. i just did a muslin of these trousers, so i'm curious to see if i also have some waistband or other issues.

  8. Rachel, I know I am WAY behind the times but these look great on you! Make more! I have just started on a pair for myself but have noticed that the dart length is not marked on my pattern. Did you find this on your copy?