Sunday, February 7, 2010

Colette Pattern: Ceylon

I am totally in love with the Colette Patterns. I have bought Ceylon, Macaron, and today Sencha and Beignet. Ceylon was the first I bought, and here it is:


This pattern is rated intermediate, and I was a little spooked by it - you know, so many details, curved seams, 16 buttons, hasn't been reviewed extensively yet, etc etc. Spook-worthy elements.

But, I have to say, that even with all the amazing details, it is so well drafted, and the instructions so clear with detailed drawings, I didn't find it as hard as I thought I would. I can't rave enough about the Colette Patterns. They are an amazing line of patterns that are so worth purchasing (and no, I have no sponsorship with them :-)

Here are some of the details:






Now, a few bloggers (including the very highly regarded Gertie) have recommended that unless you are rather (ahem) well endowed, it is best to do a small bust adjustment. I traced the pattern out, got Gertie's tutorial on how to do one loaded on the computer, then put the tissue up to my bust, as she does in her tutorial, and thought it was unnecessary for me. Now - I am a 32C generally - but most of the C-cup is generally for my wide shoulders. 

But, in close up photos, you can see that I have some minor gaping above my bust:




I am thinking that perhaps I could fix that by just taking in that top curved area a little. But - should I do it at the point it joins the yoke, or where it slopes down for the buttons? I really don't know.

Even though it has that bit of gaping, I dearly love this dress. It is made in an inexpensive cotton/poly (and usually I shy away from anything with poly), as I wanted something cheaper to make my  first version of it. It is so nice to wear. Comfy enough to have a big meal in (I wore it to my good-bye dinner with my old work friends) and stuffed myself silly. I'm thinking of making this in a gorgeous bright red linen from Tessuti fabrics for my sister-in-law's wedding - but am worried that wearing red may not be kosher for a wedding. What do you think?

24 comments:

  1. Gorgeous! As a novice I'm building up to Ceylon (I've got Sencha lined up next) - a personal sewing benchmark. It looks like you just need to take it in a little at the yoke, but I'm no expert so see what the other dudes have to say. Red really suits you - maybe you could make it less vampish for the wedding by teaming it with turquoise accessories?

    [tillyandthebuttons.blogspot.com]

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  2. looks lovely!
    I think if you make this again then you would need to take a little of the excess out of the bust. Is it tight under your arms? See the creasing on the yoke? But that could be because of the problem with the bust area.

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  3. Thanks Tilly and Nichola!

    So, do you think I do need to do the small bust adjustment? It isn't tight under the arms, but the actual sleeves are quite tight on my tricep area.

    I definitely see the creasing on the yoke. Would the SBA, and making the sleeves a tad larger reduce the creasing on the yoke?

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  4. Great job! I really want to make this dress as well...I love the color you chose and I think making it in red for a wedding would be great!

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  5. After seeing your dress, which is lovely, and looking at other Collette Patterns, I've been inspired to make Lady Grey (I love coats and jackets). I've never used a Collette pattern before and I was wondering if they are particularly difficult to use. Do they have seam allowances? Just wanted to know before I bought it (I also think their sizing is very interesting. I get to say I can wear a 6!)

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  6. This dress is lovely! It looks really nice on you! It's my absolute favorite of the Colette patterns and I really want to try it, but I have been scared of buying patterns recently, coz I have the opposite problem, a 34DD, so I always have to make so many adjustments. But maybe a Colette pattern would work for me...hmmm...I should really give it a try. It would be such a relief not to have to do a full bust adjustment for once.

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  7. Gorgeous dress. I love the vintage feel of Colette patterns. Definitely going to add this to my pattern wish list.

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  8. Hi everyone, thanks for all your lovely comments!!

    Christina - Colette patterns include the standard 5/8" or 1.5cm seam allowance. They definitely run true to size. In the 'Big 4' patterns, I usually wear a 10, which, in measurements, equates to a 0 in the Colette patterns. I made the size 6 for Ceylon. There is very little ease.

    I didn't find Ceylon all that difficult, which I mostly attribute to the extraordinary instructions. The pattern comes with a book of instructions - each one set out on a page, with the different steps set out. The illustrations are particularly good too. In saying that, Lady Grey is the only 'advanced' pattern - so it would probably be a tad more difficult than Ceylon!! But I reckon go for it.

    Stephanie - everyone says the Colette patterns are designed for bigger busted gals.... I know what you mean - making adjustments can be a pain. I'd love to see your version of it!

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  9. Gorgeous! I bought Ceylon and am yet to make it. I am thinking I will do it in yellow. I have made eclair and beignet and found the patterns easy to use. I also have macaron and parfait waiting to be made.

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  10. Kat - I love your version of eclair!! It is so girly and fresh looking. And I love the pink contrast. Lovely. I think Ceylon in yellow would look amazing on you. Can't wait to see it!

    I didn't realise you are an Aussie girl either - and from Queensland - where I am from! I dearly miss QLD at the moment.

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  11. Wow! it looks great and the details are so pretty. Its great to know that it suits busty lasses as well. I might have to try that one.

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  12. I love the color you chose for this dress--it looks gorgeous on you! :) I had a bit of a time with the bust area myself when I made it (should have done an SBA, but then again, I'm pretty small up top. lol). From the photos, it looks kind of like the armhole/sleeves are where the wrinkles are radiating from; if the sleeves are a bit too tight, that could be pulling the yoke and upper bodice out of wack. Just an idea though! ;)

    ♥ Casey
    blog | elegantmusings.com

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  13. I recently bought this pattern, so it is so inspiring to see yours! I just found your blog and enjoy seeing what you have done. I love your taste in patterns.

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  14. I am drooling over this pattern! I love the color you chose. It's beautiful!

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  15. Thanks everyone for all your lovely and useful comments. I will post some photos again when I have fixed the sleeves - for this version, I'm going to make the sleeves larger - and then in the next version I make I'll do the adjustments to the bust and front yoke. Stay tuned!!! xx

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  16. Have just come over from Sew Retro where I left a comment (although not THAT comment!... I've never had the courage to post pics of me and my creations, and every now and again I'm reminded why! Don't think I could handle some people's idea of a 'constructive comment'!). I really love that Colette Pattern and it's great to see it made up. It scared me a little because it seemed quite complicated, but I think you've done a great job. The dress looks really cute and the colour is scrumptious.

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  17. Thanks Nathalie, I really appreciate your comment over at Sew Retro. I really don't get people who do that. It is such a shame that they feel the need to be cruel. So many people here have left such useful, constructive tips that are really well meaning. And I'll be sure to incorporate their tips into amending the dress. Those helpful tips are also one of the beauties of being able to share your sewing with the online community - I don't have anyone at home that I can bounce sewing issues off, so it is fantastic to be able to get help worldwide!!

    I reckon give the pattern a go. The instructions are fantastic, and the pattern well-drafted, so it makes it less complicated. Plus I'd love to see your sewing!!

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  18. I opted for Macaron and Rooibos in the end - although I have yet to make either. I also like the Sencha blouse, and might now add Ceylon to my next order having seen yours! My problem is finding time to sew. I work freelance and recently it's just been eating into any time I have (largely because I'm so badly organised...). I really should spend less time looking up sewing blogs and more time actually sewing. Thing is, I learn so much more from the internet and blogs than any of my books.

    My next project (when I find time) is definitely the 40s nightie which you made as a dress. I've had that pattern for over a year now, and regularly pull it out and admire it, thinking it would look great as a dress... Yours has turned out so lovely, it's really inspired me to try it out. And I guess, if I get stuck, I can turn to you for help and advice!

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  19. Go for it! I meandered over here through the Flickr group for Colette patterns and just wanted to say that red is absolutely perfect for weddings. I feel entitled to say this because my weddingsdress is red :D

    And I love this pattern too, but I'm going to make Rooibos first because I don't feel so confident about my buttonholes yet.

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  20. Ooh, I have Macaron -- was going to trace it out this weekend and cut my fabric, though my little bro is coming for the weekend so won't have heaps of time to sew..... I really want to wear it to a bday party in a week and a bit, but I am so tired at night from my new job.

    Nathalie -- definitely make the nightie!! I'd love to see another one made up. It was not hard at all to make - it has so few pieces - no yoke, and no facings cos of the trim. It really was very simple. Even the sleeves cos they are gathered so they are much easier to set in. And of course you can email me for tips!!

    Ellinoora - can't wait to see your Rooibos.... it is such a cute pattern. And yes, you do need to have a well-behaved button hole function to make 16 buttonholes at once - but don't let that discourage you! Just make sure you interface the little suckers.

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  21. Wow - that looks amazing Rachel, and the colour really suits you. You'll have to wear it next time you come into the shop so I can drool over it in person ;-)

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  22. A little late to the party... but I was catching up on reading Sew Retro and I saw this dress. The Ceylon pattern really catches my eye - I am pretty sure that one of these days I am going to break down and buy it. ;-) Anyway, not knowing you personally this comment may be a little weird ;) but I wonder if some of your bust fitting issues might be coming from wearing the wrong sized bra? I only mention this because it's something that I see a lot - most women aren't wearing the right support for their girls, and it makes a HUGE difference in the way things 'hang' in that region. I've read articles that state that usually women wear too large a band size and too small cups - I know that I looked a lot better when I switched from a 36C to a 34D, it looked like I had lost weight even though I hadn't & I had a more defined waist. Just thought I'd throw that out there (and a better department store will measure you for free, if being groped by older ladies with tape measures is your idea of 'fun')

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  23. I'm reading this post way into the future from when it was published but I have to say nice work!, since the pattern is big busted hopefully it will fit my D cup as is!

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