Saturday, September 24, 2011

Tessuti's New York Cape Pattern

After sewing my second Lady Grey this year, I had been seriously hankering for more winter sewing. I thought about making a jacket, but then Tessuti released their New York Cape Pattern, and I decided that a hooded cape would work a treat!!


The pattern was expensive ($35), but I really wanted it... :-) It came printed on printer paper, with black and white photos and instructions on A4 paper. The cape is unlined, and all edges are finished with poly-cotton hong kong binding for the inside and wool binding for the outside.

I found the pattern very easy until I got to the wool binding. I sewed the binding on according to the instructions, but it looked awful. It was all wonky and the edges were wavy. I don't know what I did wrong, but I unpicked it, sewed it again and it still looked awful. My next attempt was to sew it in by hand. Thats 10m of hand stitching. It still looked dreadful. So I unpicked it and sat down for a while and thought about it.

I realised that the binding was too short in length. I also realised that if I was going to sew it in by hand I should only use a single thread, not a doubled-over thread. So, off I trotted to Tessuti to buy more binding. I bought half a meter more than the pattern suggests.

I sewed it in by hand, and here is what I came up with!




I am very happy with it now. I did do a few other things differently than the pattern instructions. I added a line of topstitching along the edge of the hood, as the layers of wool were a little bulky. Now it sits flat.


I also hand-sewed the buttonholes. To do this, I consulted Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Handbook. I used silk thread and a buttonhole stitch. I am really proud of them:



The fabric is from Tessuti - a dark navy wool/cashmere blend, the wool binding is also from Tessuti and is black, and the black buttons are from Spotlight.

This project took me a loooong time... but I am really happy with it. I think it will be great for Melbourne's spring - not really cold but not warm yet either. I wore it this morning out to breakfast and it was perfect!

10 comments:

  1. So cute, Rachel! You're so patient but it definitely paid off :)
    Alana

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  2. The amount of effort you put into this certainly paid off Rachel! You have a beautifully made, expensive looking cape...I love it!

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  3. It looks fabulous. Glad you finally figured out the binding.
    xx

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  4. It's gorgeous! This is one that you can keep in your closet forever. A classic.

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  5. What a glorious cape! You've done a brilliant job!! It's so nice to see you posting again, too. :)

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  6. Very lovely Rachel. Navy blue really suits you. Your sewing patience is admirable. Very chic. xx

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  7. Hi Rachel,

    Love your NY Cape. So sorry to hear you too had problems with the binding meterage! I made 3 capes and all came in just under 5 mtrs!!!! I'll happily take back the first lot of binding you bought.
    Glad to see you back sewing again too :)

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  8. Thanks everyone! I do love the cape.

    Colette - its totally fine - I am actually planning to use it on another project. But thank you!

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  9. Great cape. It looks fabulous.

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