Monday, July 28, 2014

Anise Jacket (and bonus Papercut Pleated Pants)

About 14 months ago, I started an Anise Jacket. I muslined it, bought the wool/cashmere fabric, silk lining, thread, interfacing etc. I started sewing and trialled bound buttonholes on scraps (my fabric was far too thick for bound buttonholes - at least at my skill level). I decided I'd get do something else with the buttonholes. I basically sewed the jacket to the point of buttonholes and buttons. I put it on my dressmaker's form and admired it for the next 12 months. That's right. I didn't touch it for 12 more months until I decided it was cold, and I needed jackets.

I investigated getting the buttonholes done professionally. There is one person in Melbourne who offers that service that I could find, and I was informed by someone who is 'in the know' that that person has been known to completely ruin garments people have paid them to sew buttonholes in. That meant one thing only.... I would have to sew these buttonholes myself.

Cue a few sleepless nights (joking... sort of), me reading every internet resource available, talking to Kate at Buttonmania (and buying required resources for hand stitched buttonholes), and obsessive reading of Claire Schaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques. I then started them. Only to absolutely hate my first four attempts. Let me tell you, unpicking silk thread on a very thick wool/cashmere is not fun at all. I may have had a small hissy fit. I left them for about a month. And then picked everything up again, wore a small running head torch on my head (doing fine stitches on that bloody wool/cashmere was really, really hard to focus on) and got them done.

I now have an Anise jacket that has been serving me well on these cold Melbourne days.


The fabrics were purchased from Darn Cheap Fabrics. They actually have a very nice selection of wool coatings. This is a wool cashmere blend and was only $20/m. The colour is lush.


I really like the 60's vibe this jacket gives off.


Awesome silk lining. I am slightly obsessed with silk as a lining.


Back view. If I knew what I did now when sewing this, I would have adjusted that under collar piece to account for turn of cloth. Ah well, you live and learn.



The buttonholes. They're not perfect, but they're okay. Liveable. The buttons came from Clegs.

I did not keep notes around making this jacket. The only adjustment I remember doing was to take some out of the CB. Apart from that, I made a size 8. Other things I would do in the future is to add in a sleeve head piece, maybe use a slim shoulder pad, and investigate why there are odd wrinkles coming down from the top of the sleeve (I have seen this on every Anise made - something weird with the pattern?).

My Anise was an odd make, mostly due to the extremely disjointed sewing process, but I enjoy wearing it now. I receive compliments every time I wear it - I think mostly due to the lovely colour. I don't think I'll make it again though. It is a fun jacket, but not a style I am totally gaga in love with.

Speaking of being gaga in love, meet my new Papercut Pleated Pants. I won't bore you with the details of these, seeing as I have made them before, but I absolutely love these. They're made from a black viscose-blend suiting remnant I got from Tessuti, and they are my perfect pants. Slightly slouchy, they sit at the perfect point on my waist, are very comfortable and look awesome with my patent brogues. I'm so glad I revisited this pattern, and will be making more.


I better get back to the Bellatrix Blazer I'm making for a special event coming up though - what are you making at the moment?

32 comments:

  1. Love them! Both the jacket and pants. So glad you finally finished the jacket. I'm sure you'll wear it lots. Must add those pants to my sewing list!

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  2. Such a beautiful jacket, I am thinking of buying myself the Anise jacket for next winter. I have a beautiful blue wool blend that it would look fantastic in

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  3. Congrats on finally getting the coat made! It does look nice on you and the colour is indeed fab. So glad the pants work on you!

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  4. I love the pleated pants. Your jacket is nice too:) I made Anise and its still lying half completed. I felt the collar was way too big. Especially I have not so broad shoulders. What is your opinion? - Diya TheHobbyHarbor

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  5. So glad you finally finished your jacket... it looks uber cozy!!! And holy crap that is a LOT of hand worked buttonholes, I can't even imagine doing that many. One thing that really surprised me about the ones I've done in the past is how durable they are - you wouldn't think so many little stitches would have such an effect! Lovely work Rach :)

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  6. Fabulous jacket! Silk lining is amazing. Your whole outfit looks great. I was wondering about the Anise jacket so very pleased to see your great version!

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  7. Very pretty. LOVE the lining fabric!

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  8. Great jacket! The color is beautiful on you and it looks super warm and snuggly.
    The pants are cool and remind me of the Mods cruising around London in the 60s.

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  9. Way to finish off those buttonholes! Your jacket looks like a great, warm piece and that lining print is killer. I need to absorb some of your project-finishing chutzpah - I made a blazer two years ago (!?) only to be completely stymied by the process of bias-binding the entire edge.

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  10. Great job on the buttonholes, to be perfectly honest if it were me I probably would have started wearing it without buttons.

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  11. Those pants are absolutely fantastic! And the Anise jacket, of course. It really is a lovely color!

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  12. I love the pants! And the jacket looks fabulous too, such a great colour.

    I can completely relate to projects that "hibernate" at a difficult point. Sometimes I won't even admit to myself why it is that I've stalled, because it's usually something that I have a mental block about like button holes or a zipper. Well done for pressing through and getting it finished.

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  13. Ace outfit. Yah for finishing your jacket. The lining is awesome and the colour & style suit you. No wonder the compliments flow. Although it's hard to see the detail, I'm not surprise these are your perfect pants. They look great!

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  14. I know - it is so hard to photograph black, especially at 7am when it is still dark outside! I really love these pants though - the fit and look is exactly as I wanted.

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  15. Thanks Suzy. I am stuck in general at the moment. I just can't summon up the energy or brain power to sew... I should just relish having a break, but I feel really at odds with it!

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  16. I almost did - and I almost put snaps on and then my perfectionistic, competitive streak got the better of me :-)

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  17. Thanks Morgan! Bleurgh - I feel your pain regardign bias binding. I find it a complete pain in the a## to sew on for some reason.

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  18. Thanks Bobbi - it is a very cosy coat to wear!

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  19. Thanks Mrs. Smith - the lining is a favourite feature.

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  20. Thanks Debbie! I think you'd look gorgeous in the Anise. But then you look gorgeous in everything :-)

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  21. Thanks Mel. I am surprised at their strength too. At first I was very delicate with them, but yesterday I let my 3 yo do up the buttons on it, and she is NOT a delicate, careful child. So they are definitely holding up well!

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  22. Thanks ChaCha! And yep, I'm glad about the pants too. They are great work pants.

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  23. I love the idea of a blue wool Anise Kaitlyn. I almost went for a colbat blue wool/cashmere myself. Good luck making it!

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  24. You'd rock those pants. I have been wearing it a lot - though it is extremely warm - I'm not sure I'll get much more wear out of it this winter!

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  25. Isn't it funny (or not) how we procrastinate over certain parts of the process, even so close to the finish line! What a great result though, such an amazing fit and gloriously un-Melbourne-y colour :)

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  26. It really is lovely and you did a great job with the button holes.. not sure I would have been so dedicated. The colour of the jacket is great on you. The PP pants also look like a perfect fit. I should really make this pattern again.

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  27. Oh wow. This is seriously special, Rachel! Those buttonholes are a total labour of love! And the lining? I die! This looks rad with the pants !

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  28. You're right- it is the type of jacket to draw compliments because it looks so great in you- toasty, cosy and with quality if your fabrics and the time you've invested in it. Fab. And the trousers? Huge envy, they look the most perfect pair of trousers for brogues....

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  29. My previous comment did not appear:( Can you please unspam it

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  30. Thanks Jenny! It is very warm though - I don't think I'll get much more wear of it this winter!

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  31. Cute jacket! I have Jamie Christina's The Abbey Coat on my to-do list for winter and it also has a 60's vibe. I totally admire your bravery to make pants! My only pair of jeans ripped recently and jean shopping was discouraging, so I'm seriously contemplating tackling pants- my second most feared garment ( first being swimsuit). Great job!

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