Saturday, March 29, 2014

The Favourite Pants Copy

For a while now I have been wanting to do something different. Sew something different. Move a bit out of my comfort zone, learn a new skill etc. I don't really have the head space for this, as work is kicking my butt, but once I had the idea I had to start moving.

I decided to start up-skilling by copying a favourite pair of my pants - these relaxed fit, elastic-waist with a drawstring pants from Elk:


I own these - in the 'splatter' print pictured, in a black viscose, and I did own them in an apple-green colour, that I got to wear once. Only once because they met with a cranky toddler in an airport wielding fried rice. Then they met with an overzealous husband wielding stain remover, who may have applied it onto dry fabric, which then resulted in bleach marks all over the pants. Lessons learnt? Never wear new pants while wrangling said toddler by yourself at an airport, and never let husbands attempt to remove stains from brand new clothes.

Anyway, the ruined pants gave me the opportunity to unpick these pants and have a pattern to work with. These pants are pretty simple to copy. They are pleated at the hem, with a cuff to bind the hem, they have an elastic waist and a drawstring casing and they have welt pockets on the back, and welt pockets on the side front. I didn't do either of these welt pockets - I totally wimped out, and decided to do no pockets at the back and in seam side pockets at the front. I wimped out mostly due to my fabric choice - a silk viscose. I'm going to look for something more stable for the next version and will most likely put the welts in. Here is what I came up with!


I think they are pretty spot-on. I will say that the silk-viscose does not move in the same way as the cotton 'splatter' ones I own - I am slightly concerned about the durability of the lighter silk-viscose, but I guess time will tell.






Next time I will put some stay tape on the side pockets (if I use them!).

Copying these pants was remarkably easy. As I unpicked them I drew all over the pattern, indicating fold lines, pleat markings and seam allowances. I also made a list of construction notes - I tried to unpick the pants in the order I thought they could be sewed - I sort of achieved this. In the end I wrote out the order as I sewed these together, so that next time I have my own instructions.

I felt kind of weird copying these. Elk is a small Melbourne business, and I wondered if it was ethical to copy one of their garments. I talked to Michael about it and he asked me if it meant I would no longer buy stuff from there. Ummmm.... no. Since I unpicked these pants, I've bought the shoes I'm wearing in these photos, the shirt I'm wearing in these photos, a necklace as a gift...... and I've requested a pair of these same pants for Mothers' Day in an awesome print that I would never be able to find the fabric for. I don't know if any of this reconciles me copying the pants - what are your thoughts on this issue?

23 comments:

  1. Great pants! You totally nailed it. I wouldn't worry too much about copying them. It is for personal use and not for circulation/sale. Plus you buy a bucket load of stuff from them. L x

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  2. lovely! how would you compare them to the Tessuti suzy pants? I'm thinking I need some pant like these in my life! and those shoes!!

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  3. Thanks - and yep, can't see myself not buying from them!

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  4. Thank you! The Tessuti Suzy pants sit higher (think on your belly button) and are longer in the leg. I like how the Elk ones sit on my hip - to me they are a bit easier to wear. In saying that, I really love the Suzy pants!

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  5. They're gorgeous Rachel. They really suit you and I love the print. You've done a brilliant job of copying! I don't have issues with making copies of favourite garments when they are purely for personal use. It's not as though you are selling them, so I don't think that you need to feel weird at all!

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  6. I love this pants and think you're so clever (enabled by small child and husband too of course).

    I think what you've done is not unethical at all. I think as you're a home sewer and unpicked the original pants as they were wrecked it's OK. You didn't buy them to copy enmasse. Firstly, you're enabling your creativity and secondly you're not making the pants to sell or to give to other people. And you're still buying from them...

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  7. These look great! Like Rebecca I'm wondering what you think in comparison to the tessuti ones? I wouldn't worry about copying. I'd compare it to exchanging copies of music with friends - if you like it then you'd buy other albums by them or get tickets to go see them play, similarly you might not buy the trousers again (though you even did that for your mum!) but you'll buy other things from them.

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  8. Your pants turned out terrifically! I bet you'd be well equipped to copy much more complex patterns nowthanks for introducing me to Elk. Such great stuff. You can rest at ease that through you mentioning them I'll be buying enough stuff to make up for your pants ;)

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  9. Great pants! I also wouldn't worry about feeling weird doing this ~ you aren't selling them to make money, and still supporting Elk ... go for it ... J

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  10. Yeah you have probably just made a bunch of people want to go out and buy Elk pants :) I think you've done a great job and you had already bought two pairs and you're not going to be making them to sell or publishing the pattern or anything - you've not given anything away here that anyone couldn't tell just by a quick look at the garment. And hey you've also been totally honest and up-front about it. It's a great style. Nice shoes too!

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  11. Love the pants & your styling! Those shoes... I think so have a shoe problem!

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  12. Thanks Jane. It is good to hear that - I know the owner of Elk from my friend's mothers' group too and really don't want to rip her off in any way. Love my new shoes too!

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  13. You are now going to have a life-long Elk addiction Elizabeth. Don't say I haven't warned you!

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  14. Thanks Kathryn. The Tessuti Suzy pants sit higher (think on your belly button) and are longer in the leg. I like how the Elk ones sit on my hip - to me they are a bit easier to wear. I do wear my Suzy pants constantly though - they are a TNT for me.

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  15. Thanks Mel! And there has to a silver lining to every fried rice-stain remover accident doesn't there?!

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  16. Thanks Lara. I figure I wouldn't feel bad about copying a Country Road t-shirt or something - I think my wariness was due to Elk being such a small company, and one I really love too!

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  17. Hello rad pants! These are fab and those shoes are delish!
    IMHO, as you are replacing a pair of rd pants that met a horrid end, are selling these on and are in fact getting more of said rad pants I think you're fine is replicating. In saying that, my work shop stocks a lot of Elk and I swear it is part of the uniform for all good cultural institution staff in Canberra. IT's so freaking good!

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  18. looks awesome. love easy pants. and don't feel bad. that is why we sew - to make things that we couldn't otherwise afford or to make them perfect for out body.

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  19. They look great - stylish and comfortable at the same time! I've never tried copying anything more complex than a T-shirt; were these pants really essy to copy? (Giving me ideas...)

    On the ethics question I feel like it's an issue to copy if that then stops you buying - but I'm not sure if that's just the sewist's rationalization! Actually I read a book about the fashion industry ages ago that said (if I remember correctly) that copying between brands was pretty common eg for basics like white shirts. Obviously not for the signature stuff!

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  20. They look great! I think you definitely couldn't sell them, but making yourself a pair is perfectly fine. Especially since you completely ruined one pair.

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  21. Man, those are super cool pants! Fantastic.

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