Friday, July 23, 2010

A Pouffy Skirted Party Dress

Ever since I saw Gertie's Lemon Tree Dress I have been yearning for a simple-design 60s full-skirted dress. I found this one on etsy for a mere $3:


What a bargain! It was still in the factory folds and had not been cut out!

Now, I was a little concerned that it would be a smidgeon too small, so I used 1cm seam allowances instead of 1.5cm. I should have stuck with the 1.5cm as it is now a tiny bit too big.

But, with a belt, I think it looks good!



It has a nice round neckline. I used an invisible zip - I was going to do a lapped zipper, but I didn't have one long enough in my stash in the right colour, so I went for an invisible. Which I had to pull out twice before getting it right. Grrr.



I used a cotton sateen that I bought from Spotlight - it was on sale for $4 a metre. I think for the volume of fabric in the skirt the fabric is perhaps a tiny bit too heavy. The belt does seem to hold up the fabric somewhat.

This was my test version of this dress. My 'good' version is the navy blue and white polka dot Japanese cotton that I bought before I broke my wrist - I am dying to sew it up.

I am getting very good at making 'test' garments or muslins before making the 'final and good' garment. I must be getting more patient! I'm currently on my 3rd muslin for Vogue 9668. The 9668 dress is a real pain to fit - and its meant to be an 'easy' pattern!

Do you make muslins for everything you sew, or just dive straight in? Or do you tissue fit?

24 comments:

  1. This is gorgeous, Rachel! Personally I tend to do a muslin of the bodice only as I need to figure out the best fba to make, but also I'm lazy. Thanks for the comment on 9668, that one is on my list to make too and I thought it'd be straight forward. Now I'm just running out the door to do a wee spotlight visit, myself :)

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  2. Lovely - that is NO muslin!

    You look so nice in vintage styles. I'm afraid that they would make me look old, but you look modern in them.

    I (now) make a muslin for everything I sew for me. (Not for the kids.) I am tossing up between a dress and pants for my next project but either way a muslin is a must.

    Vougue 9668 is great - I have it and like the the fitted sleevless variation. Looking forward to yours...

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  3. That is stunning! I agree with cherri it definately is not a muslin! I can never find vintage patterns in my bust size! Its so frustrating because they have the nicest styles. I have never made a muslin for anything I have made. I guess I have been pretty lucky and everything has worked out the first time around. I really should start making a muslin but I am just way too impatient to make something and then have to do it all over again.

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  4. Thanks everyone! Kat and Corinne - I totally mean to wear this dress out and about - and often!

    I called it a test as the fabric was only $4m (I think actual calico or muslin is more expensive than this fabric!). In my mind, if something went wrong with this version it wouldn't matter too much - but if something went wrong with my version using the $30m Japanese cotton (and 3.5m of it) - I'd cry!

    Kat - I know what you mean about being impatient - I always like a bit of instant gratification sewing!

    Corinne - you could definitely wear vintage styles! I can totally picture you in a Mad Man-esque wiggle dress or a 60s shift dress. Give it a go!

    thislightgetsin - hope you score at Spotlight! I guess I'm lucky in that the bust pieces of what I'm making rarely need adjustment. But the shoulder width almost always does - and sometimes the waist. I also often have to adjust the bodice length - 9668 has been a particular problem in that area.

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  5. What gorgeous work! Love the pattern an the fabric you chose - just beautiful

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  6. I usually make a muslin, but often just of the bodice. I don't always muslin a blouse, but a dress definitely, or anything in nice fabric!

    Your dress is adorable, and I can't wait to see your next version!

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  7. Looks great! Love the fabric!
    I don't muslin, because I'm impatient! I do however measure off the hip area and make sure there's enough space for my junk in the trunk, otherwise I'll just be sad and disappointed. I'd make muslins if I really, really loved the fabric and didn't want to ruin it the first time - but even then I'd be more likely to make a test dress out of fabric I didn't care so much about.
    I hope you solve your fit dilemmas with Vogue 9668! I love that dress and have made it a few times now...hope yours is a success!

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  8. Lovely dress Rachel. The pattern and fabric looks great on you. This fabric is soooo similar to the 80s skirt I am now hemming (I got it when you took me to Bargain Box ages ago).

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  9. I love this dress. You definitely need to keep it as a 'good' version - it looks fab!

    I never make muslins. *shock* *horror* I just dive right in and go. ;)

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  10. This is your test dress? Wow. It looks wonderful.

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  11. Gorgeous! I can't believe this is only a test!

    I trace vintage patterns with Swedish tracing paper so as not to damage the original with my slapdash pinning and cutting technique, and then baste the bodice together to sort out fitting issues.

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  12. I'm like you. I make muslins, but i also want them to be wearable. Mostly I use a fabulously cheap cotton from Ikea and dye it once the garment is finished.

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  13. Great suggestions from everyone about making a muslin of the bodice only. I tend to buy cheap fabric for my first attempt at something so that if it all goes wrong, I haven't wasted a load of money. Sounds similair to your approach. The dress is gorgeous.

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  14. That is a totally adorable dress! I love the pattern. And if that is only your muslin, WOW, can't wait to see your final one :)

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  15. Very cute dress!

    I tissue fit when I can, and make a muslin (out of real muslin) if the fit is critical. I also tend to do the bodice only technique, or if I need to see how the bodice connects to the skirt, I'll do a little half skirt. Definitely NOT a wearable muslin, lol!

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  16. WOW and more WOW for a test dress!!! Now I REALLY want to see the "good one".

    I never do muslin....BUT I'm gonna start NOW doing it cause I do directly in my "good" fabric and then I have mistakes and my fabric is just wasted =( .

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  17. Love this dress in this fabric - I think it is the perfect combination of modern and retro!

    I usually do a quick calico (no facings or anything) if I'm using a commercial pattern - I never know how it is going to turn out! Funnily, I do less calicos of my own patterns, because I am so familiar of the cut!

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  18. Oh. My. Gosh. This is absolutely stunning. I can't believe this is test fabric?! I think it's fabulous!

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  19. So pretty! Really flattering on you and the fabric is so cute.
    I am quite impatient and don't do muslins. I sometimes just fit as I go or try to tissue fit using the 'fit for real people book', but mostly I just dive in... which is not so good because I usually need to do a large bust adjustment which is such a pain! haha. Can't wait to see the vogue 9668!

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  20. Cute dress! I should make a muslin, but I don't... I usually just dive in, which not the optimal choice when working with expensive fabric. :P

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  21. Having just finished making my first ever dress, I've decided that a test run can be a very valuable thing.

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  22. What a beautiful dress! Nice job! I don't do muslins - I'm an impatient sewer, and I use a lot of upcycled fabrics, anyway, so if it doesn't turn out, I haven't lost a lot of money.

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  23. I love love love this dress. I'm too lazy to do muslins. Thank God most pieces turned out fine!

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  24. For dresses I've been making muslins - but I love it on you - great luck with no muslin!! Beautiful!!

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