Saturday, September 6, 2014

Bellatrix Blazer (and some not-so-quiet pants).

Oh hi! It's been a while. I've been really sick this winter. Laryngitis, pharyngitis, tonsillitis, Influenza A and a sinus infection. It's been horrible, including a visit to emergency at hospital when I couldn't breathe properly. Blogging has simply been beyond my head space, but today, on this gorgeous Fathers' Day, I decided it was time. Michael and Little M are doing some sticking and gluing in the back sunroom and I'm taking some time to update you on one of my favourite projects of the year.

This year has all been about jackets and coats. After I finished my French Jacket I decided I wanted to sew a classic blazer. I bought the Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns as I thought it fitted the aesethetic I was after. Classic, with a bit of funk.


I made it in a very heavy linen from Rathdowne Fabrics, with a remnant of green silk-satin lining from Tessuti.


I made the size small, with two adjustments. One, I did a 'full bicep' adjustment (yay for my gym work paying off, I love a good toned arm). I followed the method in 'Fit for Real People' by Patti Palmer and Marta Alto. An excellent, clearly written book that I would recommend in a heartbeat. My second adjustment was to take in the upper centre back by approximately 2cm. I had some minor gaping.


The pattern calls for pretty much each piece to be interfaced. For this version, I only interfaced the collar and under collar. This linen is really heavy and I wanted it to be able to get all creased and soft like a linen does after some wear.


I added shoulder pads and reinforced the sleeve head (the pattern doesn't call for this). I used very slim shoulder pads from Tessuti - these are the only shoulder pads I will ever use. They are very soft and easy to shape to a coat or jacket.


The button is from my stash.


Check out that green lining! I do love a silk lining. So soft against the skin. I had this dry cleaned before wearing it to bully that collar into submission - I really think it needs it so you don't get a sharp edge on the collar.


I highly recommend this pattern. It is a surprisingly easy make. All the pattern pieces just come together so well. I've actually made two more - one in this style and one with the shorter peplum.

I wore this yesterday to my birthday lunch. We went to Cafe Vue at the Heide Modern Museum. It was excellent. I had a lobster roll. Yum!! I wore it with my new Clover pants. I am still somewhat unsure about these pants. I posted a picture on Instagram asking people whether it would look good as cigarette pants. I got a resounding yes! They are extremely loud pants, but I guess that is the trend at the moment. I've got enough leftover of this fabric to make a simple skirt.


Look at that young girl's pose there. She is in full 'threenager' mode at the moment. Never a dull moment for me - so much negotiation and attitude.

What's next on your sewing list? I need to get sewing the dress I'm wearing to the nurse's ball I'm going to as my sister's date in October - her fiancé has opted out - hehehe.

36 comments:

  1. Great blazer! I think it's my favourite in this pattern so far. I love the dark linen. And good luck with your threenager. I will have a threenager in two months time, heaven help me.

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  2. So good to see you up and about again - and HAPPY BIRTHDAY! The jacket looks wonderful and I think that the linen was the perfect choice. So beautifully fitted! Love the pants too; they work really well with the rest of the outfit.

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  3. Happy birthday!!!! What a lovely combination and that Blazer is stunning. Funny, after you talking about your biceps I thought that book was going to be about getting great guns! Anyway, so glad you are feeling better - enough - to post about these great makes. What are your thoughts for the nurses ball?

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  4. Lovely jacket, and hoping you remain healthy. Life is never dull with young children, or adolescents. HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!!

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  5. Happy birthday! I hope you're feeling better. I love the blazer and the pants look great too.

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  6. Happy birthday! Such a gorgeous jacket, so well made, and there's something so chic about black linen !

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  7. Love the blazer. Bummer about being unwell. Hopefully the sun comes out soon and banish sickness for the rest of the year.

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  8. Great blazer and really cool pants. Couldn't believe it when I say your post - I've just bought the pattern and some heavy black linen to make it up! Great minds...

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  9. What a great blazer! Looks awesome. Sorry to hear you've been so sick - hope you are on the mend now. Happy Birthday!

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  10. I have never heard the term threenager before...perfect! I definitely have one of those. Love the jacket!! Would look great with a velvet collar. I think everyone's been really suffering this winter. So glad it looks like spring is on its way!

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  11. Love the jacket and the pants are definitely a keeper. They look great on you!

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  12. Rach, this is such a freaking rad outfit! OMG I love it- especially with the brogues!
    I'm making up the Bellatrix as my final assessment task at TAFE this year so may have to pick your brain about a few things. Yours is simply amazing!

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  13. I love both of these Rachel. I have the blazer pattern and am now extra keen to sew it up!

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  14. God, poor you! That's WAY too many "itis-things" for one person. I had a sinus infection this year - ouch, I can only imagine how terrible you've felt.

    Your pants are RAD! I LOVE them...I love a pattern pant with a plain top colour. And your jacket is lovely - I'd have to do a "tuckshop lady arm adjustment" if I made this. LOL.

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  15. Thanks Mel - it's been a nasty winter. I love patterned pants too - I think I actually have more patterned than plain!

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  16. You would rock this Helen - get onto it!

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  17. Pick away Amanda! Though I think you'll be fine - it is a surprisingly easy make.

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  18. I like the idea of a velvet collar! My threenager was quite tame today... Who knows what tomorrow will bring though!

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  19. That's awesome Robyn - it makes up beautifully in linen - such a gorgeous fabric to sew with.

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  20. I know - we've had some gorgeous days but then get hail and heavy rain the next. Can't keep up!

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  21. Thanks Sara! Love black linen - I have 2.5m of a lighter weight in my stash waiting for me...

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  22. Thank you! Life gets more and more interesting the older my little girl gets!

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  23. Hehe Kirsty! I think the work I've been doing on the RIP pulley system has been doing wonders for my guns. It uses my body weight and is pretty hard work! I am going to make a Vogue dress for the ball that is ankle length. I'm making it out of printed linen because I can't bear to make sonething that I'll only wear once. My plan is to make it more fancy with a silver belt, silver shoes and a fair bit of blingy jewellery. My sister has approved so I think I'm okay! Haha K

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  24. Thanks Lara! I do love my blazer. X

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  25. Thanks so much Debbie! Big praise. I will think of you in solidarity with your soon-to-be threenager. I actually really like how spunky she is - but truly wish the know-it-all, arguing-back attitude would tone down a bit. I can just imagine how full-on it will be as she gets older!

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  26. Don't be unsure about those pants. They are awesome! And the blazer is fantastic, too. I love the heavy linen. I'm on a linen kick right now. Love the threenager pose! Ha!

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  27. Dear Rachel. I am sorry to hear you have been so ill... I hope that is the end of it all. Your outfit is simply great - and you made it all! - very chic. I think the pants look really good Rachel - they don't look 'loud' at all by paring it down with a (fabulous) black blazer and brogues - lovely.
    My original comment after your posting was 'lost' - hope this comes through ok. M is as cute as a button.

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  28. I soo have to get this pattern and it looks stunning with those pants! Throw on a pair if heels and you are ready for a night out!

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  29. This looks so beautifully made! Great fit too.
    I hope all your sicknesses out of the way - sounds like you had enough for three years worth!

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  30. Heavy linen is fantastic! And thanks for your encouraging comments about the pants, I think I'm at one with them now.

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  31. Thanks Maree - unfortunately my throat is sore again.... I'm thinking of asking to see a specialist as things are getting a bit ridiculous. M is adorable - so spunky and a joy. I love this age. I hope you're well!

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  32. Definitely get the pattern! It is well worth it - a lovely quality and good instructions too.

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  33. Thanks Liz. I have been wearing it a lot. The sick stuff seems to be continuing unfortunately. I'm trying to lay low and will it away with strong thoughts. Not sure how successful that is, but worth a shot!

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